The Prosthetics Breakthrough That Could Fuse Nerves With Fake Limbs
"To create that ideal interface, Dirk and his colleagues developed their own biocompatible polymers, meant to mimic the properties of nerve tissue. The material is also porous, so that nerves can extend through it, and lined with electrodes, to vastly enhance conductivity. When surgeons placed the scaffolds onto the severed leg nerves of rats, it didn’t take long before the rats’ own nerve fibers started to grow through the scaffold and fuse back together. Even better, the synthetic material wasn’t rejected by the rats’ immune systems."
via Gizmodo
Thursday, March 1, 2012
Medical Technology | New polymer helps nerves and electrodes fuse
Medical Technology | New polymer helps nerves and electrodes fuse
The Prosthetics Breakthrough That Could Fuse Nerves With Fake Limbs
"To create that ideal interface, Dirk and his colleagues developed their own biocompatible polymers, meant to mimic the properties of nerve tissue. The material is also porous, so that nerves can extend through it, and lined with electrodes, to vastly enhance conductivity. When surgeons placed the scaffolds onto the severed leg nerves of rats, it didn’t take long before the rats’ own nerve fibers started to grow through the scaffold and fuse back together. Even better, the synthetic material wasn’t rejected by the rats’ immune systems."
via Gizmodo
Anyone Can Fix Their Own Pipes Without Help - Stock Market ...
The best time to learn about plumbing is now. If you can fix small problems by yourself, you won’t have to hire a plumber and you can prevent large plumbing problems. In any case, the article below will teach you a few different plumbing tips and tactics you can implement to solve everyday issues around your home.
Valves that get rarely used occasionally fuse together. Taking the time to clean these valves may save you time and money in the future.
Clean out your dryer’s lint filter. This could prevent you from a tons of trouble, and it can also prevent fires. Be certain that you thoroughly inspect the trap to ensure there are no tears or holes that may allow lint to travel to the pipes.
Remember that your toilet is not intended to be used to dispose of trash. Nothing should be flushed down the toilet except human waste and toilet tissue. Flushing sanitary napkins, diapers, disposable napkins, and other materials is a sure recipe for a clogged drain and a backed-up toilet. Even keep toilet paper use to the minimum necessary.
There are two ways to remove stubborn clean-out plugs. The first method is by using a chisel and hammer to try to loosen the fitting. The other option is chiseling through to clean out the plug.
Main water cut off valve is a very important piece of information you should be aware of, and you should know exactly where it is. The water meter for your property should be close to it. Fixtures, such as toilets and sinks, may also have individual shut-off valves. Add marks to the valves so everyone in your household knows what direction to turn the valves in case they need to cut them off in case the need should arise.
Keep track of maintenance needs on your faucets. This will help keep leaks from developing. Leaks can waste upwards of 150 gallons every single day so it is extremely important to check your pipes for moisture on a regular basis. By doing regular checks and maintaining your pipes, you will prevent any major catastrophes.
If you have a clogged toiled with a lower water lever, and the plunger isn’t working, try pouring in some warm water directly into the toilet. After the water level in the toilet bowl has gone down, you can repeat the procedure until the blockage is cleared.
Having a basic knowledge and being prepared are the first steps to successful plumbing repairs. The homeowners who educate themselves about plumbing are more prone to make better decisions regarding plumbing issues. Also, that savvy homeowner who researches everything and prepares for undertaking a plumbing issue before it really begins is better able to repair the problem more quickly and easily.
By a majority vote the pioneer cdj 2000 is something that will really satisfy. Feast your eyes on the cdj 2000.
'Whip and tongue' and 'intimate contact'…who'd thought grafting fruit ...
March 1, 2012 by Sharon Hockenhull
After attending another session on Grafting Techniques, not the ‘hard work’ graft, but the ‘joining of two pieces of wood to create a new tree’ graft, I have decided to write a blog about it. The process has always intrigued me and after my first attempts at grafting last year, when all four successfully took, I developed the grafting bug. At first the process seems complicated, but it soon falls into place once you start practicing the cuts and understand the science a bit. So, in an attempt to hopefully demystify grafting I am going to take you through the steps.
There are different types of grafting techniques but here I am just going to cover the crudely named ‘whip and tongue’ technique as this seems to be the most popular for fruit tree grafts. To create a graft you need two pieces of plant tissue that are related, ideally in the same genus or at least family group; a rootstock [which determines the tree’s size] and a scion [which determines the fruit variety].
Scions are taken from trees in the dormant season around December up to February. Select one-year-old wood, ideally pencil-thick, and cut to around 10 to 15cm long with four to six buds visible. Put these in a plastic bag, roll up and sneek them into the bottom of your fridge for safe keeping. Grafting is usually carried out towards the end of February until the end of March, just as the sap starts to rise.
The rootstock is a little more complicated. It is important to select the right rootstock for the space you have available for the tree to grow…and there are many to choose from. Frank Matthews has a good guide to the different rootstocks; MM106 and M26 semi dwarfing rootstocks tend to be the most popular for apples in gardens. Rootstocks will need to be bought in and can be purchased online via Blackmoor or Ashridge Nurseries.
The science behind grafting is fascinating and for those of you who have done the RHS General memories of plant biology will come flooding back. It all comes down to the cambium tissue that lies just beneath the bark and its ability to actively divide and reproduce cells [also called meristematic]. When two separate [but related] pieces of plant tissue are joined together, it is the matching up of the cambiums on both sides of the cuts to “intimately contact” each other that will make the union successful; as the two separate cambiums will fuse together.
Locating the cambium is relatively easy as we know it is just under the surface of the bark. We just need to make sure that the cut on each piece of wood is similar in width and length. Ideally choose a rootstock that has the same size girth as the scion. However, you may have thin scions that are impossible to match up in girth size to a rootstock; this always seems to happens to me. As long as you make sure one side of the cambium [on the scion and rootstock] is matched up and in “intimate contact” the union process will still occur.
Tools. A good grafting knife that is clean and sharp is essential and a sharpening stone to keep it that way would be useful. You will also need secateurs, elastic rubber to bind the two stems together and some grafting tape [some people use heated wax] to wrap around the secured join to protect from infection and lock in moisture. See Blackmoor for supplies. Oh, and a first aid kit would be wise.
So for the cuts. Starting with the scion… the aim is to make a smooth diagonal cut from one side of the stem right through to the other. Practice this as much as you can until you are happy with the cut [see my practice cuts below]. The tutor of the grafting course at Reaseheath, Harry Delaney, advises keeping your elbows tight to your side to help keep control of your knife and cuts. Some prefer to make cuts away from the body but Harry advocates cutting towards…hence the tight elbows…and the first aid kit.
Once you are happy with your practice cuts on your scion you need to make sure that a bud is present on the back of the cut side as in my practice cut below [see top diagram too].
Next, make a small, straight notch in the wood [in image scion is on the left, rootstock on the right]. This will slot into another notch that you will make on the rootstock and will form the union.
For the rootstock, cut just above a bud [diagonal cut sloping away from the bud] to leave you with about 15cm for the stem height. You cut the rootstock differently to the scion as you don’t need to cut from one side of the stem through to the other. You just need to take the surface off to reveal the cambium. It is also good practice to measure your cut length on the scion against the rootstock, to get a good match. You are aiming for a little gap or ‘church window’ at the top of the join [left image] as well as the bottom [right image].
Once you are happy with the cut, which should be as smooth and as straight as possible, check that the two pieces of wood fit together with no gaps between the two surfaces. Now line up the cambiums, whether matching to both sides or just one [as in above right image] making sure the notches [graft union] are ‘hooked’ together [see diagram at top] and fasten the elastic tightly around the join and tie. You now need to stretch and mould the grafting tape around the join or dab with melted wax.
That’s it. Label with the variety and rootstock and you are ready to plant up. By April, if the cambium union has worked you should see the buds starting to burst. Very exciting. I shall be holding my breath for my grafts; three Quice ‘Vranja’ on rootstock Quince C [below] and one Apple Norfolk Beefing on M26.
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Posted in APPLES, FRUIT, GRAFTING, PROPAGATION, ROOTSTOCK | Tagged APPLE SCION, ASHRIDGE NURSERY, BLACKMOOR, CAMBIUM, FRANK MATTHEWS, FRUIT TREES, GENUS, GRAFTING, HARRY DELANEY, M26, MERISTEMIC, MM106, PROPAGATION, QUINCE, REASEHEATH, ROOTSTOCKS, UNION GRAFT, WHIP AND TONGUE | Leave a Comment
Plumbing 101: Tending To Your Pipes Like A Pro | ThaiClinic.org
A properly functioning plumbing system is an integral aspect of your house. Somethings you can take care of yourself, but other issues will require a professional. Read on to learn some amazingly useful tips to help you keep your home plumbing in great shape all by yourself!
Actually, we went back and forth about what would be best to discuss on the topic of fresno plumbing.
We are not sure if our other material will be out when this reaches you, so be sure to check our site for more information.
But that is all right because what is best for you is to do more searching on your own for added content.
Never think that something like this, learning more, is not important or does not matter because it does. Do not deprive your self of the ability to create the best decision environment because that is the most intelligent thing you can do. As you are getting your home ready for the winter months, it may be a great time for you to get your hot water tank serviced and tuned up. Making sure that there aren’t any problems with your water heater could end up saving you some big bucks and a whole lot of cleanup should something bad happen.
Use cold water when using your garbage disposal. Cold water will allow for the food particles to be properly disposed of while keeping the blades sharp. Running hot water down the drain while you are using the garbage disposal can cause the drain to clog from any grease that is in there liquefying.
Rarely used valves can sometimes fuse together. Taking the time to clean these valves may save you time and money in the future.
If you find you are having an issue with the garbage disposal, do not put your bare hands in the disposal. Even an un-powered garbage disposal presents significant danger. Research on the Internet for diagrams, troubleshooters or FAQ’s about your disposal.
If there’s grout stuck inside your line, it’s most likely will be a losing cause if you try to fix it all by yourself. You can try to break up the grout and send it further down. This works better when you have plastic pipes as opposed to metal ones. On the other hand, this situation usually ends in a call to a professional plumber.
A common problem with toilets is that sewage will on will back up and flow into the toilet. This happens because of a blockage within the branch lines that connect the main line to the sewage line. If you cannot take care of this blockage, a professional will have to come out and run a snake through the line in order to clear it.
Don’t use any colored tablets that claim to be cleaners in your toilet. These products will reduce the smell, but they will also cause problems with the rubber gaskets. Over time, the damage will accumulate and could eventually stop the toilet from functioning at all.
Keep your bathtub in good shape by using a cup of baking soda and a cup of vinegar down its drain monthly. Cover it with a plug or rag, since a chemical reaction should happen in the pipes. After giving the mixture time to work, flush it out by running boiling water through the drain. Doing this will probably void your pipes of hair accumulations and soap scum.
Save time by grouping your plumbing problems into the same call. Jot down all of your plumbing problems prior to calling the plumber. This way, all of the issues can get taken care of at one time, and the plumber will not have to return to your residence multiple times.
You should drain all of your hoses when you are not using them in the winter. If you fail to do this, the hoses can damage the water pipes to which they are connected. If there’s a hose hook up in the garage, and it stays above freezing, you can safely leave it attached.
As you can see, there are many tips and tricks that you can use to fix the plumbing in your home. This knowledge is extremely valuable not only for fixing up your own home, but also for not having to rely on other people.
Demystifying fruit tree grafting, the 'Whip and tongue' technique with ...
March 1, 2012 by Sharon Hockenhull
After attending another session on Grafting Techniques, not the ‘hard work’ graft, but the ‘joining of two pieces of wood to create a new tree’ graft, I have decided to write a blog about it. The process has always intrigued me and after my first attempts at grafting last year, when all four successfully took, I developed the grafting bug. At first the process seems complicated, but it soon falls into place once you start practicing the cuts and understand the science a bit. So, in an attempt to hopefully demystify grafting I am going to take you through the steps.
There are different types of grafting techniques but here I am just going to cover the crudely named ‘whip and tongue’ technique as this seems to be the most popular for fruit tree grafts. To create a graft you need two pieces of plant tissue that are related, ideally in the same genus or at least family group; a rootstock [which determines the tree’s size] and a scion [which determines the fruit variety].
Scions are taken from trees in the dormant season around December up to February. Select one-year-old wood, ideally pencil-thick, and cut to around 10 to 15cm long with four to six buds visible. Put these in a plastic bag, roll up and sneek them into the bottom of your fridge for safe keeping. Grafting is usually carried out towards the end of February until the end of March, just as the sap starts to rise.
The rootstock is a little more complicated. It is important to select the right rootstock for the space you have available for the tree to grow…and there are many to choose from. Frank Matthews has a good guide to the different rootstocks; MM106 and M26 semi dwarfing rootstocks tend to be the most popular for apples in gardens. Rootstocks will need to be bought in and can be purchased online via Blackmoor or Ashridge Nurseries.
The science behind grafting is fascinating and for those of you who have done the RHS General memories of plant biology will come flooding back. It all comes down to the cambium tissue that lies just beneath the bark and its ability to actively divide and reproduce cells [also called meristematic]. When two separate [but related] pieces of plant tissue are joined together, it is the matching up of the cambiums on both sides of the cuts to “intimately contact” each other that will make the union successful; as the two separate cambiums will fuse together.
Locating the cambium is relatively easy as we know it is just under the surface of the bark. We just need to make sure that the cut on each piece of wood is similar in width and length. Ideally choose a rootstock that has the same size girth as the scion. However, you may have thin scions that are impossible to match up in girth size to a rootstock; this always seems to happens to me. As long as you make sure one side of the cambium [on the scion and rootstock] is matched up and in “intimate contact” the union process will still occur.
Tools. A good grafting knife that is clean and sharp is essential and a sharpening stone to keep it that way would be useful. You will also need secateurs, elastic rubber to bind the two stems together and some grafting tape [some people use heated wax] to wrap around the secured join to protect from infection and lock in moisture. See Blackmoor for supplies. Oh, and a first aid kit would be wise.
So for the cuts. Starting with the scion… the aim is to make a smooth diagonal cut from one side of the stem right through to the other. Practice this as much as you can until you are happy with the cut [see my practice cuts below]. The tutor of the grafting course at Reaseheath, Harry Delaney, advises keeping your elbows tight to your side to help keep control of your knife and cuts. Some prefer to make cuts away from the body but Harry advocates cutting towards…hence the tight elbows…and the first aid kit.
Once you are happy with your practice cuts on your scion you need to make sure that a bud is present on the back of the cut side as in my practice cut below [see top diagram too].
Next, make a small, straight notch in the wood [in image scion is on the left, rootstock on the right]. This will slot into another notch that you will make on the rootstock and will form the union.
For the rootstock, cut just above a bud [diagonal cut sloping away from the bud] to leave you with about 15cm for the stem height. You cut the rootstock differently to the scion as you don’t need to cut from one side of the stem through to the other. You just need to take the surface off to reveal the cambium. It is also good practice to measure your cut length on the scion against the rootstock, to get a good match. You are aiming for a little gap or ‘church window’ at the top of the join [left image] as well as the bottom [right image].
Once you are happy with the cut, which should be as smooth and as straight as possible, check that the two pieces of wood fit together with no gaps between the two surfaces. Now line up the cambiums, whether matching to both sides or just one [as in above right image] making sure the notches [graft union] are ‘hooked’ together [see diagram at top] and fasten the elastic tightly around the join and tie. You now need to stretch and mould the grafting tape around the join or dab with melted wax.
That’s it. Label with the variety and rootstock and you are ready to plant up. By April, if the cambium union has worked you should see the buds starting to burst. Very exciting. I shall be holding my breath for my grafts; three Quice ‘Vranja’ on rootstock Quince C [below] and one Apple Norfolk Beefing on M26.
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Posted in APPLES, FRUIT, GRAFTING, PROPAGATION, ROOTSTOCK | Tagged APPLE SCION, ASHRIDGE NURSERY, BLACKMOOR, CAMBIUM, FRANK MATTHEWS, FRUIT TREES, GENUS, GRAFTING, HARRY DELANEY, M26, MERISTEMIC, MM106, PROPAGATION, QUINCE, REASEHEATH, ROOTSTOCKS, UNION GRAFT, WHIP AND TONGUE | Leave a Comment
Yowzer! Yowzer!: The Distance in Your Eyes: Aron Wiesenfeld
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| Girl with dog (2008) |
Coming from a background in comic books, Aron Wiesenfeld has in the last few years developed a look that is at once misty and lucid, and a composition rich with detail, gravitas, humor, and story that fuse together to give them astonishing life.
Even as the pieces are beautifully rendered in composition, precision of brushstrokes, and lighting, they don't rest there. Working mainly in two media: charcoal on paper, and oil on canvas, one of the tremendous assets of Wiesenfeld's work is that it brings up the ever-unresolved debate about the balance of realism and meaning. Of the three or four dozen portrait-like scenes in his oeuvre, only a handful omit people as their subjects. And that's a good thing since Wiesenfeld's concentration on people makes his work resonant, encouraging us to seek out a story or to find a message to take away. As for what message they might hold, they differ from Jean-Francois Millet's realism, even though they share many resemblacnces. Millet sought to ennoble rural workers while Wiesenfeld's pieces veer to settings somewhere between the urban outsider feel in Edward Hopper's work, the mysticism of Caspar David Friedrich's work, and the creepy dream-worlds of Odd Nerdrum. Wiesenfeld places us on the outskirts of the suburbs, and sometimes deep in the wilderness. He doesn't flood the pieces with many reminders of our technological age, which is refreshing, but he does drop a few subtle touches in each piece that give us a modern-day context, such as the bared mid-riff outfit in Girl with a dog, the skateboard in Drain Pipe, the Japanese tshirt in The Ending, or the dainty shoes trudging through the snow in The Oath-Breakers. That's part of the magic of these pieces: the choice of elements that make them relevant to urban life or conversely the objects that rub against rural life. The objects are so slight and so sparsely placed that satire is not the main feel, but rather there is an air of unease that rises up from the settings, underlining how out-of-place the characters are from their urban hubs.
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| The Oath-Breakers (2009) |
That unease sometimes lays the foundation for the character to experience a moment of mysticism or existential epiphany, and so the pieces are in this sense the imagined glimpse the characters have of themselves. We are given access to the moment where he or she (mainly she, and mainly white-she) loses sight of her surrounding drama, to become focused only on her physical and emotional immediacies. Thus, we see that these are pieces not only of mirthful invitations for us to create our own stories but simultaneously also pieces rich in the call to meditation and the deep awareness of self and surrounding.
After spending time with even one or two pieces, it becomes obvious that Wiesenfeld aims and pushes himself to reach a masterly level, and he is succeeding, even as he manages to retain his sense of wonder and playfulness.
We had the chance to ask Aron a few questions about his work, and that interview follows below.
Interview-
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| Drain Pipe (2010) |
YowzerYowzer: Your images have such a dynamic visual style to them; it's clear and real, and yet highly stylized at the same time, which calls Nerdrum's work to mind. We're curious whether you use models or photographs in your works, and whether you use any digital techniques.
Aron Wiesenfeld: I'll take a painting as far as I can without any visual aids. I can get it about 90% of the way there out of my head, so I think that's where the stylization comes from. It reaches a point where the painting needs more specific information than I can invent. Then I use photos or props for help with the non-human elements: clothing, plants, architecture, etc.
YY: We love how your paintings steer between portraiture and narrative to reveal a very liberating and surprisingly-wide creative space that you've discovered. Instead of keeping the people and the backgrounds separate in your paintings, you depict the people deeply embedded within the settings, often the people are in the midst of action. It's a cool creative choice which gives a feeling that there is an entire life or story behind each piece and seems to give us license to make our own stories and have our own relationship with the pieces. Do you agree with that assessment?
AW: Thank you. I do agree, most of my paintings are invitations to participate in telling a story. My experience as a viewer of art is that there is nothing more exciting than a mystery, but it has to be in a world I have been enticed to enter, and care about. And it has to be a real mystery, not just random elements tossed in, if you know what I mean.
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| Late |
YY: So, you're not documenting any specific scene the way a photograph does, but rather you're orchestrating each scene in a particular way, the way a movie director uses actors, costumes, props and settings to evoke various moods.
AW: Yes, maybe that comes from comic books. A comic book artist has to be the actor, director, photographer, etc. I tend to look to painters from the past for role models of storytelling.
YY: In one sense, there is a uniting spirit of contemplation to your work, but looking deeper, there are many sub-themes, like the Nancy Drew-ish sense of mystery, for example in The Ending, the Norman Rockwell-like day-in-the-life pieces, deep intimate glimpses into the soul, haunting personalities, worry, contemplation, isolation, and even eery scenes of death. That's a pretty wide range, and only a small part of the themes and moods you've depicted.
AW: Before, every painting I did looked like it was done by a different artist, but more recently I've been pleasantly surprised to be able to look back on a group of works and see that themes have showed up by themselves.
YY: Rosy white skin seems to come so naturally to you, we weren't sure you would be able to pull off a person of another shade, until we saw your lovely new piece "Delta".
AW: Painting flesh was always my Achilles heel, until I "discovered" how to do it while looking at Rubens paintings at the Norton Simon museum: with each change of value through the spectrum from highlight to lights to middle tone to shadow to darks, alternate the color from cool to warm. With that formula, you can paint convincing flesh tones anywhere on the color wheel.
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| Soldier (2009) |
YY: That method has certainly done well for you, especially in a piece like Soldier. The distinct symmetry brought on by the elongated neck is done very well, and calls Modigliani's work to mind.
AW: She seems Middle-Eastern to me, both the fact that she's wearing a military uniform and that she is like a religious icon.
YY: Ah, the religious aspect does come across in the lighting, and it juxtaposes nicely with the pose and the cammies. It's a pretty intense piece. What can you tell us about Girl with dog? The mist looks so good in a black & white piece. We love the parallel expressions, the terrain. It's simply bad-assed!
AW: Thanks. That drawing came together a bit at a time. I had sketch of a younger girl, and when I drew it on big paper I liked the head, but decided she needed to be older, and then older, so her body kept getting longer, and I had to add a second piece of paper to the bottom. The dog was one of the last elements to be added.
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| The Ending (2009) |
YY: And what about The Ending? That one seems particularly easy to like, what with the colors, the water fading into the mist, and the illuminated foreground. The title is great because it contrasts against the image which seems to depict the very peak of excitement in a mystery story.
AW: Titles are difficult sometimes. I try not to make titles that will distract or add too much.
YY: By the way, what can you tell us about those symbols on the shirt?
AW: I took a picture of a woman in Japantown in San Francisco who was wearing that shirt. A friend who reads Japanese told me it's a greeting. I think when you are working a piece for a long time anything that comes along during that time can become part of it.
YY: So your pieces don't come about in one session?
AW: No, they don't. I love starting paintings, but not finishing them, so I have a lot of unfinished canvases in my studio. I'm sort of addicted to that initial feeling of inspiration in the very first stages of a painting. When the actual work begins, I get restless, and feel the need to start new things. Sometimes I will pull something out that I had started and forgotten, even years later, and finish it.
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| Winter Cabin (2011) |
YY: That's fascinating, because they all look so rooted in a single moment. Last question- Is there any way that you think San Diego can grow to better accept quality artwork?
AW: Getting a good art school here would be a start. We are lucky to have a great art museum though.
YY: Good idea. Paying attention to the education aspect of art seems very promising. Thanks so much for your time, and your uncanny images, Aron. We may not come up with the definitive assessment of your work, but you sure have made it fun to try.
AW: This was great. Thank you.
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