The pattern I'm using is one I bought off BurdaStyle, but the process is basically the same for most jackets. I'll warn you now that I'm not 'tailoring' this jacket with all sorts of internal construction or hand sewing (that would be nice but very time consuming!), I'm just going to sew with the least fuss possible to keep it simple.
Having said that, Burda are notorious for their unhelpful and incomplete instructions so sewing that double collar and figuring out the sequence with all those collar pieces should be interesting!
Big gulp, okay here we go...
The Pattern:12/2011 Herringbone jacket #121
See the BurdaStyle pattern page here
This pattern comes as an A4 pdf with lots of pages that you have to print out and tape together. I took mine to Warehouse Stationery and had them print it out for me. It's best to find the page that has the 10cm square drawn on it and then just print this page only. You might need to try printing it at '100%', 'fit to page' or any other variations the printer offers - the aim is to get the version where the square measures exactly 10cm (don't forget to take a ruler or tape measure with you to the printers). Then you can print the rest of the pdf using the same printing command.
Each A4 page has a white border around it (because printers can't print ink right to the edge of the paper). I trimmed the right hand border and the bottom border off each page but left the top and left hand borders attached. Then you can just overlap each page and tape them together. Much easier than trying to tape the paper edge to edge.
Once all the A4 pages are stuck together you can cut out the pattern pieces. This pattern doesn't come with seam allowances included so if you prefer to add seam allowances to the pattern itself then do this before cutting out the pieces. You may need to add extra paper on where the pattern pieces get close to or overlap each other. If you are okay adding seam allowances as you cut then go ahead and cut out the pattern without seam allowances. If you're not sure what you're doing, lose concentration easily or want to be very accurate with your cutting I really recommend adding seam allowances onto the pattern.
I also like to add information to my patterns in thick pen to make the pieces easily identifiable. To these patterns I added a note to remind myself that there are no seam allowances included. I also added cutting instructions and a piece name so I didn't have to keep checking the number against the pattern piece list.
The Fabric:
Blue wool that has some body but is not as thick as coating weight fabrics. I plan on dry cleaning this jacket so did not pre-shrink it, although if I was being really particular I would have pre-shrunk it by blasting it with steam from the iron (hovering about 3cm above the fabric).
Laying up & cutting out:
The pattern is too thick to be pinned (having been printed on basic 80gsm printer paper) so it's best to weigh the pattern down and draw around it with tailors chalk or a disappearing pen. Actually I use this method for everything because it's quicker, I can't remember the last time I pinned a pattern! Don't forget to draw 1cm (or whatever size you want your seam allowances to be) outside the pattern to account for seam allowances. I drew in a 4cm deep hem.
This pattern doesn't come with a layout plan so I just layed the pieces out in the most economical way. Usually I start with the largest and 'place on fold' pieces and then place the smaller pieces in between. Make sure you place the pieces that need to be block fused together to make that easier. I'll explain block fusing in a moment.
Double check that all the pieces are correctly layed out, with grainlines parallel to the selvedge and all seam and hem allowances added in. Then cut them out, but cut the the pieces to be block fused as one big piece.
Block fusing:
A jacket needs a lot of interfacing to give it the structured tailored look. Some of the pieces will be partially interfaced but some of them need to be entirely covered with interfacing. In most cases you can use your pattern to cut the interfacing piece and then fuse the 2 together, but if you've ever tried this with small, fiddly or curvy pieces (like skirt waist facings or collars) you'll know that they don't always end up the same shape or size. If your fabric piece stretches out of shape and then you fuse it to your interfacing it will stay in that stretched shape!
Block fusing is where you cut once piece of fabric that is big enough for all the small pieces that need to be interfaced. You also cut one piece of interfacing the same size. Fuse the 2 together. Then you can layout, mark and cut the small pieces. Do not bother marking out the pieces onto your fabric before you fuse because the heat from the iron will shrink the fabric slightly, making all the pieces slightly smaller than they should be.
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| Fuse these parts of the jacket - the front, collar, pocket flaps (not shown) should be block fused. |
Bundling:
Once all the pieces are cut I like to bundle them into a neat roll tied with a scrap of fabric so I don't loose anything between sewing sessions. Be sure to roll rather than fold your bundle to reduce kinks.
Next time:
I'll show you how to get started on sewing the jacket!
Don't think your skills will stretch to a jacket? Our Sewing Techniques Workshop will give you the confidence to tackle more advanced projects. See details here
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