by Rizvana Bradley | February 14th, 2012 | No Comments
In a season overflowing with color, texture and narrative, Kevork Kiledjian’s fall collection surged forth with an architectural force that surely hit a different mark. To be sure, there were still injections of color and texture here, namely navy blues and as unapologetic a red we’ve seen for some time, as well as a pantsuit done in a prominent jacquard design. Kiledjian’s edge reveals itself in an ability to ingeniously splice and fuse together elements. This technique only adds to the structural rigor he already possesses. We can see his vision tightening, narrowing in on a single figure for inspiration – Helmut Newton’s view of Charlotte Rampling. His silhouette is just as narrowly focused; his separates have been whittled down to the essential material components of strength and sex appeal. But rather than seeming pedantic, Kiledjian’s clothes amplify one another, in part because they convey a designer working at and stretching the disciplined limits he has set for himself. What Kiledjian has managed to capture is a woman able to pare down her wardrobe to the very elements of slick, and perform a kind of formidable design deconstruction that feels fresh and full of potential.
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